today we are on holiday!

only plan was a leisurely drive through the beautiful Rioja countryside on our way to spend the day in the city of Pamplona - I thought - like most of us - that it was a small, ancient village who's claim to fame is the "running of the bulls" - I was so wrong - it is actually a bustling city of 200,000 - is modern and beautiful - seems very affluent and progressive - even the street where they run the bulls  is very modern and well kept - loved the place!

walked around town - ate tapas - drank wine - watched "football" - very uneventful - well until our evening tapas - we were sitting, minding our own business when I felt someone's hands in my hair - I turned around and there was a beautiful Spanish dame, running her fingers through my hair - of course I was flattered but am currently in a solid relationshi ...

or ...

it was really an old man - drunk off his ass - talking in hyper-Spanish - very loudly - about me in a degrading manner to the entire bar - he then decides to put both of his hands on my shoulders and tell me - very closely - something super smart I'm sure - in slurring, drunken Spanish - wow!

now, you all know my friends so you know I've done my fair share of dealing with drunks in a bar - it's just a little harder with a language barrier - "no compremde" was not working - he just wouldn't leave me alone - my theory was his dad must have been the Barber of Seville and he wasn't all that happy about the length of my hair - finally a couple of guys came to my rescue and shooed him away - we bought them drinks and they apologized for the entire population of Pamplona - "he's just drunk" they said in a moment of ultimate understatement - I nodded and said "no problemo" - then I beamed a big old smile knowing that in that bar - on that night - I had been able to use my entire Spanish vocabulary - "perfecto"!

walking home we passed a Hemingway haunt - clearly had to buy a cigar and a drink and give the old man a toast - next we dropped by an Irish pub where John and I solved the worlds problems - eventful after all ...

today we were on holiday

your pal,

European Tronson

and now ... day two

started our day with another winemaker named Joseph - this one was full of smiles and apologies - apologizing to us because we couldn't speak a word of his language and he could speak ours pretty damn well - smiling that he will get to share the passion for his wines with us

the Dosteras winery is tiny - 4,000 cases a year - Joseph however is passionate about every bottle he produces - first took us down a rickety  iron spiral staircase 2 stories below ground to his tiny cellar - probably 40 barrels or so of this years harvest were inside - let us barrel taste the whites that had been inside for 50 days - the first was a Grenache Blanc that was in a new French oak barrel - the oak was palpable but the wine still showed some subtle fruit - next was the same Grenache Blanc but in older oak barrels - the fruit was so bright and appealing - last was a blend in older barrel of Rousanne, Marsanne and Pedro deJiminez - rich and heavy with palate coating viscosity - Joseph will blend all 3 in the bottle - un-damn-believable!

"c'mon - I want to show you my vineyard" was next - we hopped in his Nissan pickup and he drove us a few miles into the outback - just past an almond grove we drove through emerged one of the most beautiful vineyards I've ever seen - 85 year old gnarled up Carignan vines on a terraced hillside facing northwest with beautiful green grass growing between rows - although he has many vineyards his sense of pride in this one radiated through that big smile - "I make really good Grenache" he said - "I make award winning red blends" and then he said something I'll always remember - "but this vineyard and I make the worlds best Carignan" - and then fearing he may have gone too far he patted his chest and added humbly - "for me" 

the restaurant in the town of Falset he drove us to for lunch was run by a Chef native to Catalonia - as a child he had grown up on the Mediterranean in the rice country of Spain - Joseph said "he really knows how to work the rice - we must try his paella" - we did - I was ashamed at what I have made and called paella - his sautéed Octopus with lemon aioli was simply elegant - the free range chicken and salt cod and roast beef - ok I'm done you get the picture

and the wines - first came last years white blend - the aromas alone were intoxicating - peach and jasmine and honey and the color was a deep shade of gold - the palate was mouth coating and luscious - could have been the setting but I swear it was the best white wine ... I'm not going there

the first red was a red blend of mostly Grenache with a touch of Carignan called Vespres - have had before - a bottle is sitting in my store as we speak - super tasty and rich - dark aromas but with light fruit on the palate - great start - next came another blend of the same grapes but 50/50 instead - from older vines - again deep and brooding but the palate stayed with those flavors - dark cherries and a slight spiciness - was superb - finally came his "worlds best " Carignan - if you don't know that grape its mostly used in blends in the Cotes du Rhone - is nothing special in that region but ... when planted in the black slate schist of the Monstant region of Spain and allowed to mature for eight decades or so it is so complex, so polished, so full of minerality, so spicy - absolutely incredible - as to his claim - I've no point of reference as this was my first 100% Carignan - I can tell you this - it will be on my shelves when I return

next came a 4 hour drive across the high plains & desert of central Spain - through the tiny medieval towns of Aragon on our way to Logrono in the northern Rioja region - a monsoon rain made driving in a foreign country slightly more difficult  - parking in the bustling downtown on a Saturday night even more challenging - 28 times around the square when finally a Smart car backed out of a spot just barely big enough for our Chevrolet - horns blaring behind me as I maneuvered it in place - love these experiences - we take a ton for granted in the USA!

and finally off to Laurel street and the one hundred or so Tapas bars on this bustling pedestrian only street - literally teaming with thousands of Spaniards imbibing on wine and beer and spirits unknown to me - we munched on Iberico ham and small toasts with chorizo sausage and quail eggs on top - a thousand other tasty delicacies were on display - old men dancing to hip hop in one bar and young Spanish women dancing the traditional foot stomping arm waving dances we've all seen in movies in another left an indelible impression on all of us - it felt like we were in a movie just watching as mere spectators until a group of rowdy Basque men bumped into John and I was thinking " uh-oh"- but Jamie's brother just gave that big Montana smile and suddenly we had hopped onto the screen

it was 1 a.m. and time to head back - on the way nature called and I pulled behind a tree - when I emerged John was laughing uncontrollably - through the tears he said - sis just called you "European Tronson" - and so it ends

your pal,

mt 

my opinion only

the key to driving in Europe is the quick turn around when you realize you're lost ...

those of you who know me probably know I've never really been all that detailed oriented - so ... surprisingly, we left the Barcelona airport with a "pretty good" idea where the first winery tasting was - turned out we were only twenty minutes late - two "turn arounds" into the morning I spotted the Can Feixes winery sign on a building while going approximately 53 km/hr - threw it in reverse, took a left and drove through signs that said "privita" (clearly meant for others) and pulled up to the front gates of a winery and family home that had been making wine for - oh, seven hundred years or so!

turns out it is run by three brothers - I can't remember the brothers name that does the books - sorry to you accountant types - the other two were Joan (pronounced  joh ann) and Joseph (yo shef) - the first being the vineyard manager - the latter being the wine maker  - they were super impressed with my wine knowledge - oops - got that backwards - their mum still lives in the 15th century house that was built with a tower to fend off marauders trying to take their wine - obviously, we didn't - they've added plumbing  and a few other modern amenities but most impressively they still sport a "family" chapel - how useful might that be after a night of escapades - just get the damn confession over with in my own chapel before bed ... by the way, the wine was simply- fantastico!

then ... no sleep in 24 hours and having tasted 5 wines obviously meant I should drive for 2 hours - through three wrong turns this time - up into the mountains of Spain - I'm talking about hairpin turns where Gran Prix drivers must have learned their trade to the Priorat wine regions - to date - the most beautiful wine region - for me - ever! (hmmm,, can you hear that Spanish accent kicking in already?) I tasted the wines of Cellars Pasanau - I can't tell you what I thought or "the boy who cried best wine ever" would appear but I'm telling you - if you want to taste a pure expression of southern Spanish wine ...

off to eat a pigs liver and lamb chops* with Catolonian roasted vegetables so have to quit now - tomorrow we head to the coast and another tasting and then popping in to my favorite bar in Spain - until then

cheers from your pal,

mt

* - maybe - or it might be I'm having a ham sandwich and cheesey fries - also forgot the Spanish translation book at home

what the hell am I going to do with Venetian Calamari Linguine?

here's the problems with me and cooking

1. I get bored easily and don't want to do the same recipe again and again

2. I hate measuring things out so ... I don't ... most of the time

but, I made a really, really, really good dish on Saturday night - I took pictures and everything - I measured things out (kind of) and then I paired it with a good wine and it was divine - at least we thought so - here's what I did:

I first purchased (kind of) this pasta at winesbywednesday.com

(trust me, it says Venetian Calamari Linguine - hard to get good photographers to work weekends)

then I googled V.C.L. recipe's and read through to get ideas of what others might do with this odd sounding pasta

then I went to the store and bought all of this stuff for $17.98

 

that's one bunch of Italian parsely (seemed appropriate since Venice is in Italy)

a lemon

some garlic (again with the Italy thing)

a hunk of Pecorino cheese (which was $7.36 of the $17.98)

some Bay Scallops

a few Cherry Tomatoes (or grape, I can't remember and it's not important)

and it's all tax deductible now that I've written this blog ... right Alecia?

I heated up water in a pasta pan and when it was boiling I added a drop or two of olive oil and dumped in enough pasta for the two of us - cooked it to al dente -

we are going to be sauteing this in a little while so keep it true al dente please!

(can you believe how fast my hands are - or how bad my photography assistant really was - you be the judge)

then I started sauteing the scallops in two tablespoons of wbw Organic Tuscan Olive Oil

 

(make sure if you buy frozen and thaw that you pat them dry first - I didn't but sure wished I would have!)

poured myself a nice glass of Pinot Grigio from Alois Lageder

(this is clearly a pose - I pour wine a little to fast for camera lenses as well)

spilled exactly 1/4 cup of that wine into the pan and let them simmer for about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally

(the scallops that is - I swirled, sniffed then drank the wine like a true cork dork would)  

if anyone out there actually makes this recipe do not overcook these damn it - I don't know what size scallop you are going to buy so I can't tell you exactly how long to saute but to make sure I didn't overcook I tasted one at two minutes and three minutes - I was sauteing on low heat

I removed from pan and set aside (the scallops that is, not the wine)

oops - I actually did set aside my wine to chop the parsley and slice the tomatoes while those scallops were sauteing - I did 3 tablespoons of parsley and 12 tomatoes sliced in half the long way - if you think that's not enough or too much do more or less - I don't care that much to be honest

now add two more tablespoons of that same Tuscan Olive Oil you purchased at wbw a while back and spill another 1/4 cup of wine into that same scallop pan (that should leave you with exactly 2 glasses each to have with dinner - for some reason it only left us with 1.5 glasses each for dinner - weird!)

put in the garlic and saute that for a couple of minutes or so

(hopefully you have a cool cleaver like this one - if not you should probably go buy one - people will say - that's a real cool cleaver you've got there)

then mix a little more of that olive oil to the pasta and stir it around

 (probably should have done this in a bowl without holes in it - for future reference)

and throw the pasta, the tomatoes and the parsley in the pan and stir around for five minutes or so - mostly until the tomatoes are warm but not squishy.

(I should have had this on the cleaver too - I'm such an idiot!)

put the scallops back in to warm them - a minute or so should do the trick

then spoon it out real nice and arranged pretty on yellow plates like these and squeeze the half of one lemon per serving on top like this

grate some of that great (and damn expensive) Pecorino cheese on top

top with a little freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of this stuff:

and you have this:

a fresh, amazingly tasty dish that took me twenty minutes to prepare - well it would have if I wasn't measuring and photographing and drinking and stuff

hope someone reads this and makes it - the truth is that a recipe just about like this is out there if you google Venetian Calamari Linguine - but she showed a cat napping in her sink as the last photograph - you wouldn't have respected me at all if I'd have just given you that link - we both know that - so I had to plagiarize - and is it really plagiarism if you admit to it at the end?

cheers,

mt

 

Walla Walla or Bust!

so, pictures and interviews and tasting notes and maybe a one liner or two on the way starting Thursday evening - it'll be fun, I promise - bookmark this as a favorite please and thanks! If you become a follower (just of the blog, not of my lifestyle for Pete's sake) you'll be notified when it's updated.

the can't miss wine tasting!

 Nick Sniffing

talking, reading, listening, sniffing, sipping, drinking!

 great food, great wine

I think I made Arlene mad!

 early in the evening, people listening

 maps and notes and things

pontificating

 sneaking a 2nd glass - got caught!

 Nick Entertaing the Gang!

Paron's Flat Shiraz/Cabernet

Scoot Hiding - Tim Smiling - Typical

hey Cathie - don't believe a word

 Bob's Better (much better) Half

 the long, long lecture on Siepi's Super Tuscan's

  a lot of wine ... just so much time

 listen - divide by half - somewhere near the truth

a laid back Doc - enjoying the juice!

THINGS I KNOW!

I am continually amazed at the level in which people are interested in wine in the USA (say the oosah*) in general and specifically in Great Falls these days. I have been asked to do 19 wine tastings since I've opened, I've been interviewed by KRTV and the local Pubic Radio Station, people in grocery stores have called for my advice on what they should buy finding themselves in that uncomfortable predicament, I even had a guy bring a wine list over from across the room in a restaurant and ask what he should order – I find it frankly ... well, fun! So, since everyone seems so interested in the subject I've decided to publish a little of what I've learned in the past years while studying diligently about the subject I find so fascinating - here goes:

I know that Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape – that Petite Sirah is unrelated and that Zinfandel's history was under dispute for many years. Experts now agree however that it is of Croatian origin and those same experts mostly agree that parts of California and Zinfandel seem to be a match made in wine heaven. I also know I don't actually enjoy Zin's taste that much so I trust my buddy Bob DeLong to help me with this varietal – he says “It's good” - I sell it, my customers say “Hey, that was good!” - I say “Perfect”!

I know that if it says Bourgogne (Burgundy) on the label and is a red wine it is Pinot Noir, if the juice is white it's Chardonnay. If it says Chablis and is from France I know it is also part of the Burgundy region so it is a Chardonnay and I will enjoy the hell out of it - it will be steely and fresh and minerally with just a touch of fruit. I know if it says Chablis and is from the Central Valley of California I should leave it on the shelf for some other soul who probably will enjoy the hell out of it in his or her own way!

I know I love the taste of the varietal Cabernet Franc – one of my American favorites is by Lang & Reed and I further know that if I see one of these three names on a label – Chinon, Bourgueil or Samur then it is this: from the Loire Valley in France, is made solely from the Cabernet Franc grape, has a beautiful nose, an easy going palate, is on the light side in the mouth and will finish with grace and beauty.

I know that Washington State Syrah's are “on the map”. I know that if I see a Syrah from a vineyard that is in that state's Red Mountain AVA I am more than likely going to love it. It will be big, bold, darkly fruity, perfectly dry but not overly tannic - just plain drinkable. I also know that if I see a label with the words “Ciel du Cheval” on it I am REALLY going to like it – that being a vineyard on Red Mountain that lots of people are thinking may just be Washington's best – in the running for the USA's (yep, you got it – the oosah's*) best – I unfortunately know lots of people who would argue with me about this but since it's my article I get to say what I want - damn it!

I know that despite their quality, selling Washington State Syrah's is challenging – selling Australian Shiraz's over $30 is troublesome and selling Cabernet from Oregon is downright impossible – I'm OK with that last one however, why would you drink anything red from Oregon other than their phenomenal Pinot's?

I know that the percentage of red wine drinkers that frequent my website who love “Notorious B.I.G. Wines” is in the 80% range and would not like a Chinon much if I gave it to them. Therefore, I know to stock approximately 80% of my red wines to fit that “Notorious B.I.G.” category.

I know that some people love Kendall Jackson's “Reserve” Chardonnay no matter how much I rail against it – and, thank God, I know three people who were formally addicted to that “product” who have been set free and are now enjoying Vinho Verde's, Picpoul de Pinet's, German Riesling's and even – yep, it's true – the Rhone's beautiful pairing of white grapes – Roussanne and Marsanne – in fact one person reported back - “I can't even drink Chardonnay anymore” - now that's progress!

I know that a $10 bottle of wine can be good but not great – sorry to say, it's just true. The $10 bottle is enjoyable, smells lovely, has nice fruit on the palate but just can't match the complexity and length that a good, expensive bottle does. Layer upon layer going through your palate and a finish lasting minutes, even longer if you pay attention. My opinion is that if you are really, really interested in wine at some point you just have to taste a true “legendary” wine - a Domaine de la Romanée Conti, a Chateau Lafite Rothschild, a Screaming Eagle, a Penfolds Grange – and don't let someone talk you into doing it blind. Let the mystery of a “great” bottle of wine seep into your soul, let it get your heart beating in anticipation of opening it, let it sit in your cellar or if need be, your wine “fridge” for as long as it takes to reach its optimum and open it with a great deal of fanfare. Do it with wine loving friends, make it a special moment but don't wait too long for that moment. Never be afraid to be voice your own opinion but trust the experts a little and read what they think is great about your wine. Mostly, let it be an experience!

I know you are about done reading my I knows so I'll give you one last “I know” -

I know it is great fun reading, writing, talking, nosing and tasting wine – thanks for letting me be part of your wine experiences and mostly thanks for buying my wine so I can keep it up – cheers to you!

your pal,

mt

* my son and I seemed to find ourselves in a tapas bar called George's in Villanova Spain, every night for a few nights in a row when visiting a few years ago - it was next door to our apartment and the proprietor taught us to say we were from the oosah when asked – he let us play Taj Mahol's “21^st Century Gypsy Singin' Lover Man” on his sound system every night – he was cool, he made us feel comfortable that being from the oosah was cool – the least we can do to say “thanks” is to pass it on – feel free to use it your own self!